Diggin' the Dirt in El Lago

Trowels and Tribulations in a Suburban Garden - September issue

By: Donna J. Ward, Certified Texas Master Gardener (Note: This is a reprint of Donna's article for La Ventana del Lago)

Three cheers for September – (1st cheer) “Fall is right around the corner,” (2nd cheer) “Time to get back to gardening,” (3rd cheer) “The kids are back in school”!!!

I was beginning to think that we would never see an end to the hot, humid summer. July was unbearable with the excess rain and resulting mosquito population. It became virtually impossible to buy mosquito repellant anywhere during July. August on the other hand was as dry as the Mojave, but the mosquito population did reduce slightly; (emphasis on ‘slightly’). Makes one wonder why we live here. But - there are some redeeming qualities about life on the Texas Gulf Coast. For instance – not enough snow to shovel, no ice to scrape from your windshield, no snow chains on your tires, no running an electric extension cord to power a lightbulb under the hood of your car so the motor starts in the morning. Here we enjoy almost year around gardening temperatures, and are lucky enough to have two growing seasons.

Having said that, I got a call a couple of weeks ago from a friend who was concerned about his roses looking pretty shabby and losing leaves. It’s been my experience that many folks don’t realize just how much water their plants need. What they think is adequate water is rarely enough, and just barely enough to keep the plant alive. My recommendation to him was the old-timey advice from the late Bob Flagg, the Houston gardening guru whose weekly radio gardening show was a must listen-to for many gardeners and wannabe gardeners. All leaves have a lifespan - they don't stay green forever, but a good deep watering would be the best thing you could do for them right now. You may think you are giving them enough water, but I suspect not. Forget the moisture meter – you don’t need one. Bob’s advice was to take a #2 yellow pencil, and sharpen it. Stick it down into the ground (about 4" - 6" if possible) a few inches from the base of the rose - pull it out, and if the newly sharpened wood is dry - get out the hose. If it is damp and a few grains of soil stick to it - everything is copasetic. Of course if it's soggy/wet - you've overdone it. This is a surefire method whether you are checking the moisture in a pot or in the ground. If you’re easily embarrassed and don’t want the neighbors to see you pushing a yellow pencil into your flower beds, you can always stick a trowel in the soil and just look. Now that you’ve checked for moisture, you can give your roses a light haircut. Remove any dead or diseased canes, and cut back any scraggly branches. Replace any mulch lost over the summer and give them a light feeding. When cooler weather arrives (and surely it will) they will reward you with new growth and abundant blossoms.

If you are lucky enough to have a compost pile, dig some into your vegetable bed. This improves drainage, microbial action and aeration. It’s also a great way to improve gumbo soil. Spread a wide band of compost at the drip line of your trees and shrubbery – you’ll be amazed at the change for the better in both appearance and over-all health.

Some of our perennials are looking pretty sad due to a hot stressful summer. Prune back perennial salvia, buddleia, lantana and pentas. Most references say to cut them back by one-third, but I tend to be a bit more aggressive and go for one-half. I cut my impatiens back to just a few inches in mid-August, but you can still do it if you hurry. They get two feet tall, long and leggy with leaves only on the tips by this time of year. A good haircut lets them know you are in charge and you demand a bushy plant with loads of blossoms. You’ll also notice how much larger the flowers will be once a bit of cooler weather arrives. Speaking of cooler weather, winter weed seeds will start to germinate soon, so stop them in their tracks – apply a pre-emergent the end of this month.

Want your own bluebonnet trail? Start now with seeds of our state flower, plus bluebells, snapdragons, alyssum, pinks, and sweet Williams. If those daylily beds are getting pretty crowded and blooms are getting scarce, you may want to start thinking about dividing them and giving the excess divisions to your friends. If they foolishly refuse your offering, you could always use another flower bed – right?

If you took cuttings of your favorite spring tomato in July as suggested, hurry, hurry and put them in the ground if you haven’t already done so. It’s also your last chance to plant seeds of cantaloupe, squash and watermelon, and transplants of pepper, eggplant, broccoli and cabbage. Grow your own salad – plant lettuce, cucumbers and radishes this month. If you enjoy a pot of ham and greens, (and who doesn’t?) now’s the time to sow collard and mustard seeds; don’t forget to put in some beets and if you plant turnips, don’t invite me for dinner. Almost forgot one of my favorites – English peas. Whew – makes me tired just thinking about all there is to do!

P.S. The #2 pencil doesn’t have to be yellow, but I bet you already knew that.

Tips for New El Lago Gardeners

By: Donna J. Ward, Certified Texas Master Gardener

You may find gardening in this climate to be different from what you have been accustomed to in the past. With that in mind, we offer a few tips to help you be a successful El Lago Gardener.

After you have unpacked the boxes, hung pictures, and rearranged the furniture once or twice, you can finally take the time to assess your newly acquired landscape.

If you're lucky, the previous owner did a great job, and you won't want to change a thing. On the other hand - you may have definite ideas as to what you want in your landscape - plantings that conform to your taste and life style.

If you previously lived somewhere with a different climate and soil structure, here are a few things that you need to know about gardening in our area:

SOIL - The first time you dig a hole for a new planting you will notice that the soil tends to be heavy - very much like clay. Not exactly a great structure in which to grow the plants you desire. But this condition can be vastly improved with the addition of organic matter - preferably compost. This can be purchased in bags from any nursery or home improvement center's gardening department. But the best and least expensive source is the compost pile you create in your own back yard.

You may also want to check the soil's fertility and pH. Soil pH measures the degree of acidity or alkalinity of the soil. Most garden plants do best with a soil pH of 5.5 to 7.0. A soil test will also give you an idea as to the nutrient level in the soil. You can pick up a test kit at any Texas AgriLife Extension Office.

DRAINAGE - Our water table is high, so good drainage is essential for any type of planting. Raised beds accomplish this quite effectively. Make use of bricks, landscape timbers, rocks, or low growing border plants to retain 6 or 8 inches of organic matter. If you decide on a solid border, be sure to leave small gaps for water to drain from the bed rather than overflowing.

LAWNS - Forget the fescue or thick zoysia carpet you may have previously called a lawn. St. Augustine grass is without a doubt the best grass for our soil and climate.

St. Augustine spreads by stolons or runners. Set your lawn mover to 'High' - thereby allowing the blades of the grass to provide shade to the stolons. This prevents the sun from burning the stolons, resulting in a scorched brown lawn. This shading also helps to conserve moisture in the soil which in turn promotes a deeper root system.

Watering your lawn early in the morning is the most beneficial and economical time to do so. There is less evaporation and more absorption when the temperatures are still relatively cool. Watering in the late evening encourages fungal diseases.

If you are fortunate enough to have an irrigation system, be sure your sprinkler heads are delivering water droplets - not mist. If they are emitting a mist, you're wasting water and money. Mist evaporates before it can be absorbed down into the soil, and a light breeze can carry it to your neighbor's lawn.

Don't fertilize your St. Augustine lawn until after it has had its second spring mowing. Any fertilizing prior to that time will only benefit cool weather weeds. NEVER use a fertilizer that promises to feed your lawn and kill weeds simultaneously regardless of what is printed on the package. These fertilizers are combined with broad leaf herbicides that cannot differentiate between broad leaf weeds and your landscape trees. Many newly planted, and even older established trees are poisoned each year by "weed and feed" formulations. If you keep your St. Augustine lawn in a healthy state, it will eventually crowd out unwelcome weeds.

When you do fertilize your St. Augustine, keep in mind that less is more. Fertilizers, pest control chemicals applied to our lawns and oil from our driveways are the source of 50% of all pollutants which flow into our sewers. Many of our neighborhood sewers drain into Galveston Bay.

Consider not bagging your grass clippings. If left on the ground, they become an excellent source of fertilizer. Annually, clippings can supply nutrients equal to one or two applications of fertilizer. This method is much less expensive than chemical applications, and much friendlier to our environment. Inexpensive mulching blades (available for many brand-name lawn mowers) provide a smart option for homeowners who want to reduce yard waste, not to mention dependence on lawn chemicals.

TREES -The highest order of plants and an important part of our landscape, they increase the value of your property and are a visual asset to the neighborhood.

Shading your home from the summer sun, trees help to lessen your air conditioning expenses.  Deciduous trees (those that drop their leaves in the fall), planted on the south or west side of a dwelling can reduce your air conditioning expenses by as much as 20-25% during the hottest months of summer.  Not to mention - it’s more pleasant to sip lemonade on a shaded patio or deck than a sunny one.  Toward the end of the year when leaves begin to fall, the winter sun’s rays will warm your home.

After you have established the planting location and the variety of tree(s) suited to that location, visit a reputable local nursery. Avoid the mail-order catalogs from distant states with dissimilar climates, as their offerings are not suitable to our locale. Drive around the neighborhood and see what types of trees are doing well for your neighbors. This is a good indication as to what you should be considering for your own landscape. You may have your heart set on a particular variety, but if you don't see any of them growing in your neighborhood - they probably won't.

Container-grown trees are the easiest to plant. Their roots are quite often coiled around one another in the container, so you will need to split the lower half of the root system and spread the roots horizontally to encourage new root growth.

Dig the hole twice as wide as the container diameter, but no deeper than the soil level in the container. Place the top of the soil ball at a slightly higher level than the surrounding soil. The finished planting depth (after the soil settles) should be such that the plant is exactly the same depth or slightly higher after planting than it was when grown in the container.

Our soil tends to be very clay-like, and if it was damp when you dug the hole, you will notice that the wall of the hole is glazed and almost impermeable. Roots will have a difficult time penetrating the wall unless you rough it up a bit with a spading fork, hoe or hand-held cultivator.

Once you have positioned the root-ball in the prepared hole, backfill with the soil taken from the hole. DO NOT ADD ORGANIC MATTER. By backfilling with native soil, the plant is immediately forced to establish new roots in the backfilled soil and beyond. Do not fertilize at the time of planting, as delicate root hairs are easily burned by fertilizer. A root stimulator would be beneficial when planting, but hold off on any fertilizer until the tree's second growing season, and then only feed lightly.

After planting, water deeply. It is essential that the soil settle around the tree roots and eliminate air pockets. Consistent moisture is critical, especially during your tree's first growing season. Each leaf on your tree has its own personal root hair below the ground level. If this root hair is allowed to become dry, its corresponding leaf withers and dies. If your landscape trees begin to lose leaves in mid-summer, get out the hose - quick.

Fall is the ideal time to plant trees. Our mild winters allow them to spend those months establishing a healthy root system before spring makes any demands for top growth. Moisture is essential to accomplish this, so don't put away the garden hose just because it's winter.

VEGETABLE GARDENS - Have you ever been lucky enough to live in an area where you could plant two vegetable gardens a year? We have the ability to produce both spring and fall vegetable gardens. Visit your Texas AgriLife Extension office for a list of vegetable varieties suitable for your area and the dates on which to plant them.

FRUIT and NUT TREES / BERRIES - Perhaps you would like to plant a fruit tree or two, and maybe some berry vines. You can forget the Jonathan apples, hickory nuts and raspberries, but many types of fruit trees, nut trees, and berry vines can be successfully grown in your back yard.

A major factor that has to be considered is ‘chilling hours.’ Many fruit crops have built-in mechanisms for measuring the length of a winter. These mechanisms monitor the number of hours that the temperature is between 32 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. These temperatures are cumulative – not consecutive. When the required number of chilling hours has been met for a specific variety, the next warm spell will bring forth blooms. For our locale, look for fruit trees requiring low chilling hours of 200 or less. It takes approximately 3 years for a newly planted fruit tree to begin producing, so be sure you have planted a proper variety, otherwise you have wasted 3 years!

BULBS - If you formerly resided above the Mason-Dixon Line, you fondly remember crocus poking through the snow heralding the end of winter, and tulips reappearing each spring along with the robins. It won’t happen here. It doesn’t get cold enough for those bulbs to achieve dormancy during our mild winters, so they will not give you a repeat performance. You will need to replant each year. Here is a list of common bulbs you may wish to plant and dates on which to do so. Those marked with an asterisk (*) need to be pre-chilled in your refrigerator for 6 to 8 weeks before planting.

Christmas through New Year’s Day – *tulips;

Easter – caladiums;

Halloween – *crocus, freesia, Dutch iris, anemones, ranunculus;

Thanksgiving – daffodils, *hyacinths.

AZALEAS, CAMELLIAS, MAGNOLIAS and GARDENIAS - Our soil is alkaline, but we manage to grow some beautiful flowering shrubbery. Nothing surpasses the spring-time display of our flowering azaleas, or the camellias so flush with blooms that the branches touch the ground. And what perfume is superior to the lemony fragrance of a southern magnolia or the scent of a gardenia blossom? These shrubs thrive in an acid soil.

Our local nurseries carry several types of organic and chemical acidifiers. If you have a pine tree or two, the fallen needles make great mulch for these plants with the added benefit of providing some acid to the soil.

There are very specific rules regarding the planting of azaleas, so check with your nursery or Texas Cooperative Extension Office before you begin.

MULCH - Other than moisture, mulch is a plant's best friend. Mulch conserves moisture and controls temperatures both hot and cold, thereby protecting tender roots near the surface. Mulch discourages weeds and keeps the soil from packing, thus eliminating the need to cultivate.

As previously stated, pine needles are an excellent mulch, especially when used in conjunction with oak leaves which have been at least partially broken down in a compost pile. Both are acid forming and help to maintain the acidity of the soil.

NEVER allow mulch to touch the trunk/bark of a tree or shrub. Mulch retains moisture which attracts insects and diseases. When mulch is banked up against the trunk of a tree the bark stays damp and can eventually rot - the tree or shrub will die.

COMPOST - Leaves, grass clippings, spent garden plants, kitchen scraps (no meat products), small twigs, weeds, etc., is the basis for a cost effective and practical method of converting green matter into a nutrient-rich soil amendment. You can construct a confined situation out of landscape timbers, concrete blocks, or wire fencing, but a loose pile works just as well. Toss on a handful of fertilizer, a sprinkle of garden soil, keep evenly damp, and turn it with a spading fork occasionally to incorporate oxygen. The more you turn it, the faster the decomposition. If you turn it every 3 or 4 days, you can have a finished product ready for use in about 6 to 8 weeks. Remember that shredded leaves decompose more readily.

FERTILIZER - Every granular or liquid fertilizer that you purchase has three numbers printed on the label.

The first number represents Nitrogen. This is a stimulant, and promotes green, lush growth. If your plants have yellowish leaves, they most likely are suffering from a lack of nitrogen. Natural sources of nitrogen are cottonseed meal, rotted manure and blood meal. A chemical source of nitrogen is ammonium sulfate. But be careful, an excess of nitrogen produces rank growth at the expense of flower and fruit production.

The second number represents Phosphorus. Phosphorus stimulates root growth, promotes maturity, and encourages fruiting and flowering. Weak plants, weak stems, and few flowers or fruit indicate a lack of phosphorus. A natural source of phosphorus is bone meal; a chemical source is superphosphate.

The third number represents Potassium or Potash. Potassium promotes a plant’s general well being. It helps plants resist diseases and insects, increases root systems and strengthens stems. It also increases the development of flowers and fruits. A natural source of potassium is wood ashes; a chemical source is potassium chloride (muriate of potash). Potassium deficiency causes weak stems, insufficient root systems, and plants become more prone to diseases.

Always use the minimum amount of fertilizer necessary to do the job. Excess fertilizer actually encourages certain insects and diseases. While a little fertilizer is good - too much is actually detrimental not only to your landscape, but also to Galveston Bay. Many drains in our locale empty into the Bay, and excess fertilizer runoff pollutes not only the Bay, but ultimately the Gulf of Mexico.

PESTS and DISEASES - We have our share – maybe more. They can’t be eliminated entirely, but they can be controlled.

Brown patch and chinch bugs may appear in your lawn, cabbage loopers may chomp away at your broccoli, white fly may infest your citrus trees, and powdery mildew will probably appear on your crape myrtles - but don't be discouraged. Your first defense is to identify the problem. Invest in a gardening book written especially for our locale and make friends with your nurseryman and your Texas AgriLife Extension Office. These are the people with the answers to your questions. If you wish to speak with a Master Gardener, our closest Texas AgriLife Extension Office is located at 5115 Highway 3, Dickinson, Texas 77539 - (281) 534-3413, ext.1.

We hope the preceding information makes it easier to establish the landscape that is right for you.

Recommended Landscape Trees for El Lago

By: Donna J. Ward, Certified Texas Master Gardener

Following is a list of trees and a brief description of each that you may wish to consider for your landscape. The larger trees are excellent shade providers, and the flowering trees lend themselves to specimen plantings. They should all do well under the conditions we have to offer, and would be an asset to our landscapes. These trees are native and/or adapted for the Houston/Galveston area.

SHUMARD RED OAK - Rounded canopy, glossy foliage and tolerant of mildly alkaline soils. Bright scarlet fall color. Attains an average height and width of 50 ft. x. 50 ft.

BUR OAK - Relatively fast growing, long-lived, heavy spreading limbs. Large acorns attract wildlife. Tolerant of alkaline soils and urban stresses. Attains an average height and width of 75 ft. x 75 ft.

LIVE OAK - Broad spreading form, evergreen leaves, and tolerance of a wide range of local soil conditions. Attains an average height and width of 80 ft. x 80 ft.

SAWTOOTH OAK - Relatively fast growing oak with a spreading canopy. Produces large acorn crops at an early age making it especially desirable for wildlife plantings. Suited to a wide range of soil conditions. Attains an average height and width of 80 ft. x 50 ft.

NUTTALL OAK - Oval to rounded canopy, and a tolerance of poorly drained clay soil. Large acorns attract wildlife.; Long–lived, with yellow autumn color. Attains an average height and width of 40 ft. x 25 ft.

GREEN ASH - Long-lived with good yellow fall color. Tolerates a wide range of soil conditions. Rounded canopy, rapid growth. Attains an average height and width of 80 ft. x 49 ft.

DRUMMOND RED MAPLE - One of the better fast growing trees with small red spring flowers. Has a rounded canopy and new growth provides red color in early spring. Attains an average height and width of 70 ft. x 40 ft.

CHINESE PISTACHE - Relatively small tree with rounded canopy. Often provides good yellow fall color. Male trees preferred as female trees provide copious amounts of messy fruit. Attains an average height and width of 40 ft. x 30 ft.

MEXICAN PLUM - Small understory tree with open density, highly irregular form. Tolerates most sites. Medium to fast growth rate. Prefers good drainage. Does not produce an abundance of shade, but valued for its fragrant, white flowers and attractive peeling bark. Attracts wildlife. Attains an average height and width of 20 ft. x 20 ft.

GOLDEN-RAIN TREE - One of the most popular of small flowering trees because of its fast growth, spectacular flowers, and coral colored seed capsules. Highly irregular form. Attains an average height and width of 30 ft. x 25 ft.

CRAPE MYRTLE - Unrivaled among small flowering trees in ease of culture and tolerance of most growing conditions. Picturesque form, autumn color (varies with cultivars) and interesting exfoliating bark. Attains an average height and width of 30 ft. x 15 ft.

BRADFORD PEAR - Pyramidal form when young, becoming more oval with age. White flowers in spring, with red to purple autumn color. Small nutlike pears can be a nuisance in well maintained landscapes, but attractive to wildlife. Attains an average height and width of 30 ft. x 25 ft.

SOUTHERN MAGNOLIA - Stately evergreen with dense, upright pyramidal form, becoming more irregular with advanced age. Moderately-slow rate of growth. Large, highly fragrant white flowers (7-8 inches across). Attains an average height and width of 40 ft. x 25 ft.

SAUCER MAGNOLIA - Small flowering tree with moderate growth rate. Upright, oval form with upright single or multiple trunks. Purplish to rose saucer-shaped flowers (4 to 6 inches across) appear in late winter or early spring before foliage. Good specimen/accent plant. Attains an average height and width of 20 ft. x 15 ft.